Eco viscose spandex pointy de roma
Eco viscose spandex pointy de Roma
Today in this blog, I am going to discuss Liva eco viscose spandex pointy de Roma fabric.
First of all, we need to know how to calculate yarn feeding%.
Suppose that, we will make a Spandex pointy de Roma fabric of 290 gsm.
Here,
Required yarn count: 34/1 live eco viscose 100%+75 D polyester + 30D spandex
Required gsm:290
Required stitch length: 2.75 + 2.45 + 1.18
Here we checked the stitch length of the fabric by calculating 100 needles on one side of the fabric and got above the stitch length.
34/1 live eco viscose will be used in the interlock and 75d polyester +30d spandex will be used in only the dial and only the cylinder part.
To make sure the yarn Feeding percentage we need to check practically. Here I have given the practical data that will help.
Yarn feeding% calculation :
First, need to calculate the ratio of stitch length and yarn.
For viscose : (2.75/34)=0.081
For polyester: Need to convert 75D polyester to cotton count =5315÷75=70.87
So ratio for polyester=(2.45÷70.87)= 0.035
For 30D spandex: Need to convert 30D to cotton count. 30D is equivalent to 177.17 cotton count.
So ratio for spandex =(1.18÷177.17)=0.007
The total ratio is 1.22
Now need to calculate feeding % and got as below :
34/1 viscose: (0.081x100)÷1.22=66.24%
75D polyester :(0.035x100)÷1.22=28.31%
30D spandex: (0.007x100)÷1.22=5.45%
Now I am going to discuss the knitting to the finishing process in a sequence.
Before knitting we did a grey fabric wash which result is as below:
Before wash dia: 64 inch
Before wash grey gsm: 291
After washing dry dia: 45 inch
After wash gsm : 388
Lengthwise %: -17%
Widthwise %:-8%
After that, we started knitting.
After that, we need to heat set the fabric due to the above 5% spandex being used.
Heat set parameter :
Speed: 15 meter /minute
Temperature:200°C
Overfeed: 55%
Setting dia: 58 inch
Grey dia: 58 inch
Grey gsm : 356
After heat set dia: 60 inch
After heat set gsm : 275
After that, we need to dye the fabric in double parts. And then we dry the fabric in a starter machine. The stenter parameter is as below:
Speed: 30 meter /minute
Temperature:150°C
Overfeed: 40%
Setting dia: 58 inch
Padder pressure:5/2
After stenter set dia: 57 inch
After stenter gsm : 282
After that we checked shrinkage and got as below:
Finish dia: 56 inch
Finish gsm: 285
Lengthwise %: + 1%
Widthwise %: -3.3%
Spirality: 2.1%