Fabric cutting process in garments industry
Fabric cutting process in garments industry
Fabric cutting is a critical stage in the garment manufacturing process, directly impacting the quality, fit, and cost-effectiveness of the final product.
The overall fabric cutting process typically follows these systematic steps:
Fabric Reception and Inspection: Fabric rolls arrive from the supplier and are inspected for quality, shade variations, defects, and accurate quantity.
Fabric Relaxation (especially for knitted fabrics): Knitted fabrics, due to their inherent stretch, need time to relax after being unrolled. This prevents shrinkage and distortion after cutting.
Fabric rolls are often opened and laid out on tables overnight for this purpose. Cut Order Planning: The cutting master plans how to cut the fabric based on garment design, pattern components, fabric type, print, design, embroidery, fabric spreading length and thickness, and available machines.
This planning aims to minimize fabric waste and maximize efficiency. Marker Making: A marker is a layout or guide that dictates how pattern pieces are arranged on the fabric to be cut. It can be created manually or using specialized Computer-Aided Design (CAD) software.
The goal of marker making is to achieve the highest possible fabric utilization, minimizing waste. Fabric Spreading (Laying): Fabric is laid out in multiple layers (plies) on a long cutting table.
This can be done manually or using automated spreading machines. Proper spreading ensures consistent layers, preventing distortions and maintaining uniform tension across the fabric. Forms of spreading: Fabric can be laid face-up, face-to-face, or zigzag, depending on the fabric characteristics and desired outcome.
Laying parameters: Key considerations include pattern matching, fabric relaxation, and precise alignment of ply edges.
Cutting: Once the fabric is spread and the marker is in place (either physically on top or digitally programmed), the fabric is cut according to the marker lines. Precision at this stage is paramount, as mistakes can affect garment fit and appearance.
Sorting and Bundling: After cutting, the individual fabric pieces are sorted and bundled by size, color, and garment component. This ensures that no pieces are misplaced and facilitates a smooth workflow in the subsequent sewing and assembly departments. Each bundle is usually tagged with information like size, lot, style, and color.
Position and Shade Marking: Specific markings for pockets, tucks, or other design elements are added to the cut pieces.
Each component may also be marked with a unique shade number to ensure consistency within a single garment.
Types of Fabric Cutting Techniques and Machines:
Fabric cutting methods can be broadly categorized into manual, semi-automatic, and fully automatic.
A. Manual Cutting Methods: These methods rely heavily on the skill of the cutter and are typically used for smaller production runs or custom designs.
Hand Shears (Scissors): Used for single or double fabric plies, especially for samples or small, intricate cuts. Offers high customization but is slow and prone to human error for mass production.
Straight Knife Cutting Machine: One of the most popular manual techniques for cutting multiple layers. It has a straight, sharp blade that moves vertically.
The operator guides the machine along the marker lines. Round Knife Cutting Machine: Generally used for cutting lighter fabrics. It has a circular blade that is easy to handle and can make both straight and gently curved cuts.
Die Cutting: Involves using metal dies (sharp blades shaped to the pattern piece) to cut specific parts from fabric blocks.
This method is highly accurate but labor-intensive and best for small motifs or repetitive shapes.
B. Semi-Automatic Cutting Machines: These machines combine some automation with manual intervention, offering a balance between precision and efficiency for medium-scale production.
Band Knife Cutting Machine: Features a continuously rotating steel blade mounted on a table. The operator moves the fabric layers towards the stationary blade to cut. Known for high accuracy, especially for intricate shapes, and can handle significant lay heights.
Notcher Machine: A specialized machine used to create small notches on fabric pieces.
Notches are crucial for alignment during sewing. Drill Machine: Used to create drill holes on fabric, indicating specific points for pockets, darts, or other attachments.
C. Fully Automatic (Computerized) Cutting Machines: These systems have revolutionized the garment industry, offering high precision, speed, and reduced fabric waste. They are ideal for mass production.
Computer-Controlled Knife Cutting Systems: These machines use an oscillating or tangential knife guided by a computer program.
They can cut multiple layers of fabric with pinpoint precision, eliminate the need for physical markers, and are highly efficient. Laser Cutting Machines: A laser beam melts the fabric along the cutting path, providing clean, sealed edges (which can prevent fraying).
Ideal for high precision and intricate cuts, especially for synthetic fabrics. Water Jet Cutting Machines: Use high-pressure water to cut fabric.
This method is suitable for delicate and heat-sensitive fabrics, as it doesn't generate heat and leaves no fraying edges. Ultrasonic Cutting Machines: Utilize high-frequency sound waves to vibrate a blade, generating heat and cutting through fabrics, particularly nonwoven materials.
Environmentally friendly with minimal waste. Plasma Torch Cutting Machines: While less common for general apparel, they are used for specialized fabric cutting, often involving burning, melting, and vaporization.
Importance of Precision and Optimization in Fabric Cutting:
Quality Control: Accurate cutting ensures consistency across all garment pieces, which is essential for a high-quality final product.
Cost Reduction: Minimizing fabric waste (through efficient marker making and precise cutting) significantly reduces material costs, which are a major expense in garment manufacturing.
Efficiency and Productivity: Automated cutting systems and optimized cutting plans lead to faster production times and increased output.
Fit and Appearance: Precisely cut components ensure that garments fit correctly and have the desired aesthetic.
Garment manufacturers continually strive to optimize their fabric cutting processes through advanced technology, skilled personnel, and meticulous planning to achieve the best possible quality, efficiency, and cost-effectiveness